His intellectual aesthetic first took the international fashion scene by storm when he and other graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy rented a truck and set up shop at London Fashion Week in 1986 after gathering experience freelancing as a consultant designer and working as a … I think there’s a bit of an urge today to become a star very soon. As put by Noel, “their [the collections’] particularity became classic.”, If London had Blitz nightclub to thank for bringing young creatives together, then Antwerp had Cafe D’anvers. You had Vivienne Westwood, Katherine Hamnett, Body Map, Culture Shock and John Galliano was just starting out. “The term Six Sigma was coined by Bill Smith in 1986, while at Motorola. It’s like you came from another planet, we never heard of you! “I was looking for something new, and a lot of people felt the same,” she continued. This interview is part of a series of collaborative content brought to you by 1 Granary magazine. A year after that, I met Dries van Noten because I was at that moment also dressing windows for other stores. As one of the original Antwerp Six, he made his debut in 1987 in London. Though editors have strived to discover a second wave, occasionally thrusting greatness upon groups of succeeding Antwerp Academy graduates, history has not been repeated. This piece is an excerpt from a longer interview – head over to 1 Granary for the full story. Both were designed to grow the fashion industry in Belgium, and to introduce young, talented home-grown designers to major ready-to-wear brands. He graduated from the Antwerp Academy in 1980. Aug 10, 2013 - Antwerp-Six, Dries Van Noten, Ann demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Walt Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, 1986 London Fashion Week Sailing Collection, March 1986 Courtesy of Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten, one of the Antwerp Six warmly recalls his initial, idealistic trip to London for … In 1986, six young designers (all graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts) and a shoe-seller-turned-creative-director, drove a van to London and fronted up … The group also had luck on their side historically: at home in Belgium, fashion funding was receiving heavy investment. Here’s how the story of the Antwerp Six is told: in 1986 six designers from Belgium bundled into a van, drove to London where they exhibited – achieved success and changed fashion forever. Although I had never done this before, I agreed. The abstract and impersonal nature of Belgian fashion has later led to the criticism that Belgian fashion does not exist. Paris, London, New York and Milan will no doubt come to mind when you think of world fashion capitals. The next day we made flyers and started distributing them on the first floor, and sometime around mid afternoon that day, we suddenly had Barney’s there. The city was enamoured with the idea of the independent creative, encouraging young risk-takers to forge their own path, and bringing them together in pounding club and music scenes. The 1980s saw designer fashion mature into a financially viable business. Also, because what they designed was entirely different from the other, there wasn’t any direct threat. But, more broadly, the designers were developing in a decade synonymous with vibrancy, creativity and risk-taking. She gratuated in 1981 and when she went to London in 1986 with her collection she proved herself one of the notorious six. After this success he opened his own boutique in Antwerp with his women and men’s collections. Then the Japanese came and they started deconstructing fashion. Nel 1986 destò grande interesse con la sua prima collezione di scarpe maschili in stile militare. It would be true to say that without the pioneering work of The Six, who first presented collections during London Fashion Week in 1986, fashion as … It’s fashion folklore – how in 1986, a gang of Belgian designers bundled into a van, headed across Europe and caused a stir at a London tradeshow, making their mark indelibly on the decades of fashion to come. He said that he had a shoe collection and asked if we wanted to sell it. The Antwerp Six – a label conjured up by the press not least due to the difficult pronunciation of their names – remain memorable not so much because of all the six designers individually (some maintained their place in the limelight while some faded), but because they represent the rare phenomenon of a group making an impact on the international stage simultaneously. Over the previous few days, six other people had died of unknown causes in northwest Chicago. Thirty years on, this legacy is evident in the recent reaction to the ultra-rapid pace of catwalk collections, part of the reason for Raf Simons to exit from Dior. “Negativity existed in the period. Even if you pick up old ideas you can make them new, and more for now.” This in itself is a new challenge for our graduating designers, who face a market that appear to have seen it all. Members of the Antwerp six joined the fashion department to … A group of unknown graduates from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp arrive at the British Designer Show, crammed into a small van, to present their collections. Antwerp’s renowned fashion school, the «Royal Academy of Fine Arts», is the prolific birth place of world-famous designers, of which six became known as «The Antwerp Six». It felt like a pop group splitting up. People will always need something to wear, but the industry will be different. We were just of the same generation, with the same interests – it was inevitable that we would all meet.”. The Antwerp Six: Dries Van Noten. No more glamour shows with top models, but just models from the street walking between the chairs. Nel 1986 La scuola di Anversa da origine alla leggenda degli “Antwerp six”, un gruppo di designer diventato brand grazie al loro stile così forte, concettuale e provocatorio e destinato a scuotere le regole del fashion system: Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Saene e infine Walter Van Beirendonck. On the international stage, there was an opening for young, experimental talent. So I said, ‘I’m fed up travelling with your shoes in the countryside. That’s why as a group they got stronger and stronger, and they didn’t have to worry about being number one.” The Academy’s teaching style, which focuses solely on creativity without regard for commercial viability, also allowed the designers to do as they pleased. The designer, one of the original Antwerp Six who started his namesake label in 1986 and helped place Belgium on the fashion map with his avant-garde clothing, artistry and prints, is opening his first standalone US store tomorrow. Many have argued that the advance of digital has swept away the opportunity for designers to create anything truly new, as our swipe-happy culture encourages the recycling of ideas. His last victories are the Six Days of Keulen 1986/1987 and the men's madison during the European Madison Championships 1985/1986. A group of unknown graduates from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp arrive at the British Designer Show, crammed into a small van, to present their collections. Add to Plan. At this time the six were doing innovative work but couldn’t make an impact by only showing their work in Belgium. ... Infatti, dopo qualche anno di lavoro come freelance, nel 1986 decide di lanciare il suo brand con una collezione di abbigliamento maschile, subito acquistata da clienti prestigiosi, come Pauw di Amsterdam, Whistles a Londra e la catena newyorkese. Please, I have one solution: let’s go to London’s British designers show.’. I like to see this positively. Grandson of a tailor and son of the owner of a fashion store. He then expanded to men’s clothing in 1988 and launched his first women’s line in 1993. Established among fashion’s avant-garde and counted among the illustrious Antwerp Six, Belgian artist-turned-designer Ann Demeulemeester founded her namesake label in 1986. Their reputations were built not just through their collections, but also through their business practices; the designers avoided grand advertising strategies and worked at their own pace. Sarine Arslanian. Key Systems And Processes Used By Ac Gilbert Born in 1958, Dries Van Noten graduated from Antwerp’s Fashion Academy in 1980 to start his career in the fashion industry. Forget the beer and waffles cliché, Belgium’s second largest city is the latest European hipster hub, with an avant-garde cultural scene that blows all stereotypes out of the water. “The term Six Sigma was coined by Bill Smith in 1986, while at Motorola. Photography Karel Fonteyne, courtesy of Bozar . Coincidence played a role; the talent and personalities of the group and those around them informed every detail of each designer’s collections. What then, was the magic formula? Moment 54: The Antwerp Six Dubbed by WWD in 1986 as the “twerps,” a radical wave of designers including Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten emerged out of Antwerp, Belgium. The six artists studied under Linda Loppa, who formerly served as the dean of Polimoda fashion school. 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